South Korea presents a captivating study in contrasts, being a vibrant modern nation while simultaneously rooted in profound historical roots. Unfortunately, it often falls under the larger shadow cast by its northern neighbor's theatrics, yet it quietly, yet irrevocably, turned its fortunes around, stunning financial wizards with a prosperous reversal of economic status.
With the division of the Korean peninsula post-World War II in 1945, the south grappled with a nominal per capita GDP and rudimentary lifestyle in the early 1960s. However, through relentless hard work coupled with ingenious strategic planning, the tide has turned. Today, South Korea takes the spotlight as a captivating culture-rich supernation and the globe's thirteenth most extensive economy.
Intriguingly, South Korea may be the sole country where distinct physical characteristics separate each generation. Elders, a testament to their years of physical exertion, stand averagely at 5ft with slightly stooped postures. In contrast, a middle generation of diligent, polished conservatives mirrors their improved living conditions with an additional half foot in height. The younger participation, benefiting from prosperous times, often cross the 6ft threshold.
Contrary to expectations, the country's younger population does not recycle the national achievements as arrogance. They carry a deep-seated pride for their homeland, but an insatiable curiosity about the Western world remains. Thus, be prepared for surprise requests to join family group portraits, engaging in occasional disjointed English dialogues in public transports, and warm, slightly reserved, greetings wherever you travel in this remarkable country.
While women often rule the roost at home, sexism is still largely accepted in Korean society: it is improper for women to smoke in public, and men and women rarely shake hands. But there are some benefits: at select Lotte department stores there is a separate level for women-only parking, with large bumpers in front of the wall. So helpful.
Seoul fosters all kinds of quaint traditions. A new couple, for example, is not taken seriously until observed wearing full matching outfits; your dog can’t be seen outside until it has dyed-pink ears and booties; a night out is not complete without disco bowling; and it is not unheard of to have your fried chicken served in a (clean) urinal at a toilet-themed restaurant.
This is a culture full of fascinating contradictions; the remnants of Confucianism have teamed up with rampant consumerism to form a slightly confused society. There remains a strong hierarchical respect among the population (grammar changes when you address elders, and some seats on the subway are strictly reserved for the elderly), yet the streets are kept clean by destitute old people without family support, who cart waste and recycling to centres and get paid a pittance. (Thankfully, a welfare state is now emerging, and it looks as though this imbalance will slowly be corrected.)
One of South Korea's five historic royal palaces in Seoul
Most people in Seoul visit nude bathhouses regularly, yet frown upon uncovered shoulders in public; conservative parents are as obsessed with plastic surgery for their children as they are with academic achievement; and South Korea’s population consumes twice as much liquor as Russia’s, yet crime and drug abuse are rare.
As a place to travel around, whether as a family, as a couple or alone, it is incredibly easy. The subway is spotless and cheap, with air con and English signs – not to mention the immaculate (free) toilets in every station. You can charge your phone everywhere and access free Wi-Fi across the city (the whole country is connected to superfast 4G), and taxis are plentiful and cost next to nothing – a driver once asked me to pose for a selfie with him as payment for our 30-minute journey (people love photographing foreigners).
Even the airport hasa public bathhouse, an ice rink, a golf course and two cinemas.Yet there is a strong traditional side to Seoul, which throws light on its troubled past. There are fantastic museums and lovely walks to be taken along the old city walls, as well as beautiful palaces, temples and theatre and dance performances.
During the hot, humid summers, outdoor public swimming pools open across the city; autumn brings magical colours and is a perfect time for hiking; winter is cold, but there are ice festivals, skiing and even ice-fishing; spring is for picnics in the park under falling cherry blossoms.
At weekends, the national past-time, hiking, comes into its own. Half the city dons neon nylon and heads for the hills – Seoul has 37 mountains and thousands of trails.The city itself holds an infinite number of surprises, which I still hadn’t got used to after 18 months of living there.
The widespread fascination with beauty and body perfection in Korea is rather intriguing. In an urban landscape punctuated by beauty salons and plastic surgery clinics, the battles against birth freckles come with a stunningly low price tag of just £2. Also, common presents to mark a Korean girl's 16th birthday are rhinoplasty and blepharoplasty to enhance facial aesthetics and enlarge the appearance of the eyes. While this may seem startling, one must bear in mind that we're discussing a city that prides itself on its narcissism. Look out for instances of high-spirited vanity on the subway, as it’s the theater of many selfie-shooting and photo-opportunities. Korean men, curiously, consume more beauty products than guys from any other part of the globe.
Age carries a different interpretation in Korea; rather than a measure of time, it's seen as nothing more than a collective annual progression. A newborn baby is considered one year old, and everyone celebrates a universal birthday on the turn of the New Year. As such, if your birthday happens to fall on December 28, you would technically turn "two years old" a mere four days later!
For shopping aficionados, each Korean subway station has its own bustling fashion mall (or multiple), with some districts entirely dedicated to retail therapy. Most shops stay open until 11pm while others operate 24/7 basis to cater to the relentless passion for fashion. Replete with markets that awaken at dusk to dawn, Dongdaemun stands as a firm favorite. For brand enthusiasts, Myeongdong is your go-to, Beijing is the perfect place to unearth quirkiness, and the latest trends call Sinsa home.
Entrench yourself in the unique linguistic blend that's 'Konglish', a peculiar fusion of Korean and English that sometimes misses the mark in fascinating fashion. Keep your eyes peeled for notebooks preaching the marvels of 'though', venerable seniors donning apparel endorsing 'motherf—ing gangster', and chart-toppers belting out cryptically humorous lyrics like 'Sexy, free and single, I'm ready to bingo'.
Exploring Seoul - A Unique Guide for Enthusiasts
A voyage through Seoul's distinct quarters transports you to another time. The cultural heritage of Insadong, easily accessible from Anguk subway station on Line 3, is not to be missed.
Delve into the ethereal beauty of Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces, showcasing an intricate fusion of Korean architectural genius and vibrant murals. Remember to reserve your spot ahead of time for the exquisite secret gardens, a hidden retreat filled with astounding biodiversity.
Experience the soul of Seoul by traversing the antique, stone-paved alleys north of Anguk station. Here, the captivating roofs of traditional houses beckon. Whilst there, take a detour to discover an array of charming cafes and trendy boutiques, each offering a uniquely Korean experience.
The vibrant artery of Insadong-gil, just south of Anguk station, presents a treasure trove boasting exotic souvenirs, prestigious art galleries, and an abundance of street entertainments. A born epicenter of creativity and inspiration, Insadong-gil is a place where art comes alive.
With multitudes of floors celebrating art, both domestic and global, the MMCA stands as a crowning achievement of Seoul's modern and contemporary art scene. A visit is a sensory feast for those with an appetite for artistic exploration.
Equally captivating in its creativity is the Cheonggyecheon Stream. This 3.6-mile waterway juxtaposes urban chaos with serene escapism, meandering peacefully alongside Line 1, from Jonggak to Sinseol-dong. Once recharged, explore the adjacent subway stations on Line 1 that offer a fusion of antique hunting, immersive shopping experiences, and a burst of art-inspiration.
Jongno-5, Exit 7 leads you to the bustling Gwangjang Market, which sells local food and fabrics. The real gem is the hidden second-hand clothes market on the second floor. More than 500 stalls are crammed with extraordinary vintage wares, from 1950s frocks to Burberry trenches.
Dongdaemun, Exit 8 or 9 leads you to the Dongdaemun fabric and craft market, a mesmerising five-storey building that is an homage to craft – wool, jewellery, charms and much more. Walk towards the silver building that resembles a spaceship (DDP – Dongdaemun History & Culture Park), which hosts everything from a parade of toy Pikachus to the latest modern-art exhibitions.
Sinseol-dong, Exit 9 is the home of Seoul’s largest folk flea market, a fantastic street market and antiques warehouse that houses just about everything from taxidermy tortoises to old postboxes, furniture, furs, lectronics and jewellery.
Sinsa: sophisticated and glamorous(Sinsa subway station, Line 3)
If you are after something more relaxed and expensive, walk to Garosu-gil, a boulevard of cafes and boutiques with some inspired shop windows. Come here for late-night shopping and drinking.
Further up you will reach Apgujeong and Gangnam, otherwise known as the ‘self-improvement quarter’. Transformation posters line the subway stations, and moulds of noses cover shop walls. If you can face it, find out more at the BK Plastic Surgery Museum, which offers an interactive experience: touch samples, watch videos and even schedule an impromptu consultation if you so desire.
Hongdae: young and funky(Hongik University subway station, Line 2)
To penetrate the eccentric heart of Seoul, head to Hongdae, the student area. It is home to bizarre fashion, buskers and dancers performing to crowds of cameras, vibrant street art and the hottest live music, bars and clubs.
Venture forth from the vicinity of exit 9 at Hongik University station, threading your route toward Hapjeong station. This lively neighborhood is brimming with fashionable boutiques and eateries--an ideal spot for observing the hustle and bustle of local life. Try stepping into a photo sticker booth. Indulge in a creative session as you watch your photos transform with enlarged eyes, a blush tint, and even the creation of imaginery dimples courtesy of their novel editing toolkit.
To delve into the heart of what Hongdae offers, immersion into its nightlife scene is a must. Navigate towards the 'Children's Playground', a chameleon of a spot - looming as a crafts market in the daylight and morphing into a digital dance floor come sundown. Imagine witnessing impromptu DJ battles, dynamic dance-offs, and even a surprise matrimonial proposal-all of that, with the backdrop of a monthly open-air silent disco party. The ubiquitous soju- a local spirit won't put a strain on your budget as it's laughably affordable, even cheaper than water at the 24/7 mini marts. An unforgettable night on the town minus any dent in your pocket!
An essential element of your Seoul sojourn should definitely be a night of noraebang (Karaoke). Karaoke holds a near-religious status in Korean culture-evident from the fan-galore. You'll be greeted with a comfy private booth decked out with cocktail choices, snacks aplenty and access to a world of song selections. Distinguishing these bars is a cinch-all that's needed is to follow bright, flashy disco lights and distinct, heartfelt renditions of Korean ballads seeping from the walls.
Standard bowling is too passé for the Seoul-cialites. For a twist, take a shot at disco bowling that amps up the classic alley ambiance with luminescent bowling balls, neon backdrops, and a soundtrack that'll keep you pumped. Tae Wha Bowling Center opens its lanes till the wee hours of 4 am, ensuring night owls never face a dull moment.
Finding Serenity in Seoul
Should the hustling, bustling capital of South Korea leave your feet weary, Seoul possesses an abundance of spots to regain your energy and find tranquility.
The city is proudly recognised as having the highest concentration of coffee places globally, ensuring a haven regardless of your coffee preferences. Craving some animal companionship? Animal-lovers visiting Korea are in for a treat- many of Seoul's cafes come with an animal-themed twist. These unique establishments, filled with adorable, free-roaming dogs, cats, and even the occasional sheep, are more than capable of providing some much-needed furry relief.
If you happen to spot a glowing red heatwave sign during your exploration of Seoul, you are in for a real treat. Pave your path towards a unique Korean experience called jjimjilbang which will cost you as little as £4, and as much as £10. Jjimjilbang operates round-the-clock and offers a set of gender-segregated bathing facilities, notable for maintaining a no clothing code, featuring a series of hot and cold pools along with quality options for saunas, steam rooms, and massage rooms.
In this classic Korean tradition, body hair isn't seen as something to be hidden or removed but rather appreciated as a natural symbol of fertility. You might observe Koreans comfortable and cheerful in their natural element, not flinching or avoiding the extra hair on their bodies, a concept that might be new to many visitors. They welcome all, regardless of the extent of body hair, so there's no need to feel out of place or self-conscious. From the chill of the ice room or the warmth of an outdoor heated pool to the therapeutic effect of salt-themed rooms, Dragon Hill located near Yongsan station is the ideal place to dive deep into this customary Korean regime. Here you can unwind to the core, bathing for as long as you desire or simply lounging around, enjoying your coziness in pyjamas within the unisex central cafe or serene sleeping quarters.
The jjimjilbang is more than a house of zen and relaxation, it's a slice of Korean life, that you definitely shouldn't miss!
THE CULINARY EXPLORATION OF SEOUL
In the heart of South Korea, Seoul serves a gastronomic treasure trove with a multitude of affordable culinary delights that locals frequently enjoy. Navigating through the menu might seem challenging for non-natives, but take heart and randomly pick a dish – you're highly likely to relish whatever delicacy you end up choosing. Each dining table is traditionally appointed with a grill or a wok for meat, and a fascinating array of unfamiliar soup and side dish accompaniments.
Remember, dining etiquettes here would often see the eldest person at the gathering paying the check, while tipping is typically not customary in this part of the world.
Don't miss out on trying kimchi, the omnipresent dish featuring pickled cabbage. Locals believe in the multiple benefits of consuming kimchi including anti-ageing effects, and it was even credited with protecting Koreans from a recent outbreak of bird flu.
With the language acting as a barrier in comprehending Korean menus, consider visiting Itaewon, a locality that’s been westernised with an array of global restaurants and bars to suit less adventurous palates.
The culinary powerhouse that is the Gwangjang Market, hailed as Seoul's sprawling food bazaar, is a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic Korean food tasting experience. Be sure to taste bindaetteok (mung-bean pancake), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bibimbap (mixed rice with vegetables), and japchae (noodles made of sweet potato).
When in Seoul, you can hardly miss the aromatic barbecue stalls spread across the city, serving sizzling galbi (beef) and samgyeopsal (pork). Considered a national favourite, the Korean barbecue experience is all about wrapping freshly grilled meat in lettuce leaves, adding a dash of spicy sauces, and pairing it with an assortment of side dishes. Try creating your own taste adventure!
Embrace the comforting heat of Seoul's signature dishes. Savor the restorative flavor fusion of the city-favorite hangover stew, laden with hearty beef broth and garden-fresh vegetables. Alternatively, stimulate your taste buds with the fiery soondubu jjigae, a hot favorite of spicy tofu stew, a testament to the Koreans love for spice.
Delve into a Western-inspired dish with a twist - the spiced chicken and vegetables dish known as Wok Dakgalbi. Simply request for 'barely spicy' if you prefer less heat, but enjoy the boldness of flavor.
Enjoy a budget-friendly and tasty meal with traditional noodle delicacies such as jjajangmyeon, a delightful blend of noodles bathed in black-soybean sauce. Or, try naengmyeon, an aromatic mix of cold buckwheat noodles tossed with assorted vegetables.
For the daring gastronome, why not venture into challenging local delicacies? Based on the principle of utilizing every portion of the animal, dishes such as makchang (cow rectum), gopchang (intestines), and jokbal (pig’s trotters) are quite popular. Don't be discouraged by their unconventional ingredients, as they are enhanced by tasteful sauces and sides.
For quick and delectable bites on the go, experience the vibrant street food scene in Seoul. With safe and hygienic practices, you can readily indulge in gimbap (Korean-style sushi), twigim (a wholesome mix of fried prawns, eggs, and veg), hotteok (a sweet crispy pancake filled with syrup, cinnamon, and seeds), or boong-uh-ppang (a heartwarming doughnut complete with red-bean filing).
Drinks Koreahas a hefty drinking culture, so opt for soju and makgeolli (rice wine) with your food to really fit in. It is customary never to pour your own drink – whoever you are with should pour it for you.
WHERE TO STAY
There are a variety of hotels in Seoul, from glitzy to truly ‘local’. Staff in the more ‘local’ places are unlikely to speak English.
Boutique The W Seoul Walkerhill, situated at the foot of a mountain, is particularly stylish, and was the first W hotel to open in Asia. Similarly luxurious accommodation options can be found at boutiquehotels-seoul.com.
Fancy sleeping in a prison? Or a Sponge Bob love nest? In a safari Jeep? There are plenty of possibilities. Most are a couple of hours outside the city, but if you like something a bit different then it may be worth the trip. Visit lamangpen.com and cozythemeg.com – unfortunately they are in Korean, but you can use your browser’s translating service for enough Konglish to get by.
With couples not living together until they are married, love motels are everywhere. They are difficult to book in advance, so just look for the brightly coloured buildings with neon signs and flashing hearts. You can rent by the hour or by the night, and often it is only a discreet hand through a gap that hands you your receipt and key.
Swap the chair for the floor, and the bed for a mat. In a traditional Korean hotel, called a pension, you sleep on heated floors and hard pillows. It’s not as uncomfortable as it sounds, but I suggest avoiding it if you have a temperamental back. Most pensions don’t have websites, so ask around and show up without a reservation.
Seoul Surroundings Explored
Seeking an escape from the urban landscape? Board a 90-minute subway journey from Seoul and find yourself amidst the tranquility of green mountains and rivers.
In close proximity is Namiseom, a serene wooded paradise perfect for bike rides and summer swimming. One highlight of Namiseom is an out-of-the-ordinary ostrich spotting experience. In a manner reminiscent of James Bond, you can make a thrilling entrance to the island by zip-lining. Namiseom is accessible via a shuttle bus journey from Seoul taking between 70 to 90 minutes, alternatively, you can reach it by subway to Gapyeong station with a quick taxi ride following up.
For beach-going enthusiasts, Muuido and Deokjeokdo are locations to consider. You may notice Koreans' aversion to bikinis due to their pale skin protection habits, preferring full wet suits instead. Yet, it's your holiday, dress as you like! Muuido offers opportunities for camping at Hanagae beach or hiring a basic hut amidst the beachy landscape with high tide swimming an added bonus. Deokjeokdo presents similar options with budget-friendly island pensions up for grabs as well.
Craving a family-friendly adventure? Put CWT water park on your agenda. Easily reachable via subway to Gapyeong station, followed by a quick taxi drive, this park features a water obstacle course, jet-skiing and water-skiing, ensuring that children and adults alike will be entertained.
For the more adventurous visitor, the daring day trip to the tense border separating North and South Korea awaits. Delve into history by exploring the infiltration tunnels, and even step on North Korean soil in the conference room. If you'd like to bring a memory back home, the gift shop offers sections of barbed wire for purchase. To make this journey stress-free, a guided tour can be organized through DMZ Tours (dmztours.com).